What I Want: Reveler’s Hour Garlic Honey Butter Grilled Half Chicken
/Words and photos by AJ Dronkers | Edible DC
At the peak of the pandemic I was living in a 500-square foot studio downtown, and I thought I might gradually lose my mind.
Everything was closed; without the friction of hoards and happy feet, the heart of the city was losing its heat. And my walls were closing in on me too. I had lived in Mt. Pleasant 12 years ago, and was nostalgic—of wide streets, big trees that dampen the tympani of rain, and neighbors you knew.
I decided to move uptown and upgrade to more space and doors. One morning I was drifting down Columbia Road in my new hood, remembering what it was to be a person, and something lovely caught my eye. I saw the crimson wax seal of a Virginia wine I’d enjoyed tremendously in the before times for sale at Reveler’s Hour. Restaurants at this point were still closed, so their brick and mortar establishments had become very expensive display cases for what you could purchase to-go.
Reveler’s Hour became my go-to spot to pick up Old Westiminster’s Pét-Nat Field Blend Piquette, which reminds me of a Lambrusco’s funky all-natural cousin, who dropped out of college to travel the world with a wealthy, brooding artist who you can tell is good in bed...wait, what were we talking about?
When restaurants were finally opening back up, I was so eager to check out the food offerings of my new favorite wine shop. The restaurant is from the same team that brought to Adams Morgan the Michelin-starred, Tail Up Goat. The trio of owners are Jill Tyler, Jon Sybert (also chef), and Bill Jensen, who opened this more casual sister restaurant on NYE in 2019. My first visit back we went full ham. We sampled just about every dish on the menu, and a new obsession was conjured. The dish that forever sealed my addiction to Reveler’s Hour is their Grilled Honey Butter Chicken, which is served with rotating sides that change weekly.
My first order of chicken came out with crispy potatoes and a tangy frisée salad, and my heart grew three sizes. Another week, my partner and I enjoyed it alongside lemony potatoes and smoked escarole. Whether it’s catching up with a friend, celebrating some occasion, or simply going too long without it, I always look forward to splitting this dish with a fantastic glass of wine.
PS: Two words, Garlic Knots.