One Fish Taco at a Time in La Paz
/There’s no place like Baja Sur’s coastal gem for seafood
Words and photos by Susan Able | Edible DC
Sometimes the best vacations are the ones you didn’t expect. This was completely true of a long weekend spent in La Paz to find explore local foodways.
La Paz, the capital city of Baja California Sur (BCS), is a delightful surprise about two hours north from the resorts of Cabo San Lucas. If you are looking for an authentic Baja California Sur experience, there may be no place better than heading to La Paz, on the Sea of Cortez. It’s stays off the beaten tourist path for those who head to the resorts of Cabo San Lucas, but for ecotourists, foodies and those who crave really understanding a country, La Paz is a delight. But La Paz, about two hours north on a fully modern highway from the resorts of Cabos San Lucas, is a delight.
The highway from the airport is completely modern, but its dusty. Welcome to BCS, you’re in the desert. Take note that cows may be on the road—or at the airport. When I arrived, a small herd was roaming the airport parking. As you drive north to La Paz, you’ll note that the cowboy vibe is still strong, because ranching is still a large part of the BCS economy. The approach to the La Paz outer limits takes you through some urban sprawl of this fast growing city and lots of OXXO stores (Latin America’s version of the 7/11 convenience store), but as you grow closer to the Sea of Cortez, you’ll enter the charming central core of La Paz.
The town was founded in 1811, and its center is a mosaic of historic buildings, winding streets, town squares and amazing publicly funded artist murals. But you’ll find the real heartbeat of La Paz public life along the malecón, the city’s three-mile-long esplanade along the waterfront. Lining the malecón are not only large sculptures that speak to the city’s history and marine life, but dozens of café’s, restaurants, bars, ice cream shops and palapas on the beach—all things needed to enjoy a day in this waterfront city.
With a long history of fishing as a primary source of food and income for its citizens, its not a surprise to be presented with a wide variety of the freshest seafood, which has made La Paz famous.
My challenge? To take on the fish taco, which was made famous in Baja, from street food versions to sit-down restaurants.
There are many debates about what town in Baja actually “invented” the fish taco, but rest assured, regardless of the first, La Paz’s fish tacos are among the best to be found. Locals swear by eating fish tacos for breakfast or lunch, (Ivan Felix, my guide from the tourism bureau explained that La Paz natives find fish “too heavy” for evening meals) and there is fierce debate about favorites.
The Fish Taco (Tacos de pescado) 101: The tortilla should be corn. The fish is fried (usually) and can be any fresh local catch such as grouper, dorado (mahi mahi), sea bass—really any kind of fresh white fish. It is literally the catch of the day depending on what local fishermen bring in. The toppings are sometimes found in a topping bar for the customer to apply, otherwise served “with” but it is shredded lightly pickled cabbage (red or green), a pico de gallo or salsa, creamy citrusy mayonaisse in a drizzle. A lime. Hot sauce? Up to you.
Guaranteed to please are three top places to whet your fish taco appetite. And if you speak Spanish, even a little, now would be your time to dust it off. And if you don’t, I got along just fine just using my translator app. Ordering tacos is easy.
Super Tacos de B.C.S. Hnos. Gonzalez
A simple street truck with a smattering of tables and a couple of counters, this is a favorite of locals. It’s surprisingly inexpensive, expect the cold drinks to cost about as much as you taco. There may be just a bit of a wait, but you can get your drink and stake a claim to a table. The tacos are served up on warm corn tortillas, which was a plus for me. The fish (dorado that day, often whitefish) was crisp and generously served up in a beer batter. There is a condiments/toppings bar, with pickled cabbage, onions, salsas and some very delicious and differently seasoned crema toppings. To quote one local reviewer, “The classic good taste of the tacos de La Paz.” A wedge of lime comes with. Plenty of napkins and hand sanitizer, used before and needed after for cleanup. An ice cold Topo Chico finished me off.
A fish taco is about $2. We ordered lunch for 5 people, with sodas for about $21.
Open 8:30 am to 4 pm, every day but Tuesday. There are other locations, but the address for this location is: Gomez Fariaz, Viosca y Cerrada Palma, 23098 La Paz.
Tacos De Pescado El Estadio
Another favorite of La Paz natives or Choyeros, this location of El Estadio Tacos has a small shaded dining area with about a dozen tables. Order, get a number, take a seat and quickly you will be called up. The fish of the day was fresh grouper at El Estadio (although ask if they have yellowtail), and I also ordered by first taco made with lightly deep fried, locally caught shrimp. Both were outstanding, with shredded cabbage and lettuce, some shredded carrot, and a citrus creme mayoniaise drizzle. I added hot sauce. It was not for the faint hearted. Five of us ate tacos and had soft drinks for about $20 USD.
Open every day, from 8 am to 2 pm. There are two locations, the address here: Guillermo Prieto 1320, Zona Central
Taco Fish La Paz
Taco Fish is a top taco destination in La Paz, and an actual “sit down” restaurant, more than a taqueria, in an open air, covered patio with a bar and an expanded menu with lot of choices of seafood, fish tacos, empanadas and ceviche options. Order at the register, take a table number and the food is delivered to you. My dining partners and I sampled the more extensive menu, (the fish taco was nicely fried variety of sea bass), but we also ordered some ceviche on a crispy tostada, tried fish taco with sea bass (so good) and the best? A smoked marlin taco and a smoked marlin quesadilla, that had a light cheese as the base. New addiction. One of the best things in the non-seafood category? A fresh strawberry horchata. Another new addiction. Lunch for five people, plus a tip was about $25 USD.
Open 8:30 am to 4 pm, closed on Mondays. Address: Gral Manuel Márquez de León S/N, Zona Central
Ready to go?
La Paz has an international airport about six miles from the central town, and the San Jose Cabo airport is about two hours away. Car rentals are available widely.
Hotel options?
If you are looking for a boutique hotel, try Baja Club Hotel, by Grupo Habita, which is located on the Malecón in a former colonial-era mansion. Think stylish and chic rooms, with a swimming pool, spa and very good restaurant under a pergola next to a reflecting pool. Rooms are about $300 USD per night.
A lovely, more budget-friendly option is the Hotel Catedral, located in the historic center district across from Our Cathedral Lady of La Paz, the hotel features a year-round rooftop outdoor pool and sun terrace with great views, a restaurant and bar. Rooms are about $115 USD per night.
