Edible Afield: New Haven — A Visit to The Enchanting Elm City

By Thomas Martin, Edible DC

Courtyard of Branford College at Yale University, in New Haven, Connecticut.

Just a few hours north of Washington by train, the city of New Haven offers visitors exciting attractions (ranging from art museums to world-class libraries to a planetarium) as well as a dynamic and diverse restaurant scene. As a Yale senior, I’ve spent the last four years exploring and falling in love with New Haven and all this city, my home-away-from-home, holds. 

There’s no shortage of places to stay in New Haven. Popular downtown hotels include the swanky Omni New Haven and the New Haven Hotel. If you’re looking for a quieter part of town to spend a night or two, The Study at Yale is ideal. Its rooms are spacious and comfortable, and it’s located in the artsy nexus surrounding the Yale School of Art. 

The Study at Yale offers luxurious accommodations and a lobby that may as well be an actual library or private study.

Steps away from your hotel, there is sure to be a stellar place to grab a cup of coffee and a pastry. Swing through the line at Atticus Bookstore Café on Chapel Street and snag an almond croissant (my favorite), or brave the wait for a table and try the Smoked Salmon Tartine on house-made sourdough bread. Jojo’s Coffee & Tea, right next door to The Study, offers excellent green tea lattes, assorted quiches, and more than a dozen bubble tea flavors. Visit Claire’s Corner Copia (est. 1975), just across the street from Yale’s Old Campus, for a wide variety of vegetarian and vegan dishes and desserts—the Lithuanian Coffee Cake is legendary. Other popular cafés in the area are Willoughby’s Coffee & Tea (right next to the Yale School of Architecture), Book Trader Café (java and used books abound) and Koffee?, a quirky den north of campus with live performances and after-dark wine service.

Sterling Memorial Library, Yale’s main library, houses more than 2.5 million volumes.

There’s plenty for visitors to do on-campus at Yale. Our two flagship art museums, the Yale University Art Gallery and the Yale Center for British Art, are free and open to the public six days a week. If you’re more of a bookworm than an art enthusiast, head over to Sterling Memorial Library, the center of Yale’s library system, housing 2.5 million books. A short walk north from Sterling is the Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library, which houses Yale’s rarest and most fragile texts. Visitors can view exhibitions currently on display as well as some key materials (a Gutenberg Bible and a copy of John James Audubon’s The Birds of America, for instance); if you register with the university beforehand, you can even request materials to be pulled from the stacks and view them up close in the Beinecke’s downstairs reading room. And for science lovers, the Peabody Museum of Natural History and the Leitner Family Observatory and Planetarium are certain to delight.

The “KFC” (Korean Fried Chicken) steamed bao buns at Mecha Noodle Bar.

All the sightseeing is sure to stir up an appetite. Luckily, New Haven is a fantastic city for foodies. There are some local classics that everyone should try (like Louis’ Lunch, which claims to have invented the hamburger, and the two icons of New Haven-style pizza, Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana and Sally’s Apizza) but there’s far more to New Haven’s restaurant scene than burgers and pizza. Harvest Wine Bar & Restaurant dishes up farm-to-fork American fare in stylish surroundings. Lalibela Ethiopian Restaurant on Temple Street is the perfect place to go with friends; order several meat and vegetable entrees and pass around the injera so everyone can taste all the options.

The white clam pizza at Frank Pepe’s is one of the institution’s most beloved pies.

If al fresco dining is your style, check out Kasbah Garden Café; enjoy their selection of Morrocan tagines and couscous dinners in their lush outdoor seating area, perfect for when the weather finally warms up. Mecha Noodle Bar is a lively yet cozy place to grab ramen, pho, dumplings, and steamed bao buns. For dessert, stop by Arethusa Farm Dairy or Milkcraft for ice cream, or venture out to Libby’s Italian Pastry Shop in Wooster Square, the Italian section of the city, and stock up on house-made butter cookies, macarons, and biscotti. If you’re short on luggage space, no problem—Libby’s ships right to your door.

A two-scoop waffle cone from Arethusa Farm Dairy—one scoop of strawberry, one scoop of cranberry almond.

Nightlife in New Haven is always buzzing. Barracuda has some of the best happy hour food and drink specials around (try the Yucca Frita, seriously), and BAR is a great no-frills place for music and dancing. For a more chill evening of wine, cocktails, and good eats, Barcelona Wine Bar and Elm City Social are perfect. More of a pub person? Rudy’s Bar & Grill has been serving the city for more than eighty years—and their Belgian fries are to die for.

Before skipping town, be sure to head to Campus Customs or the Yale Bookstore and grab some Bulldog merch. The next time you come back to New Haven, you’ll fit right in!

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Thomas Martin is a digital associate at Edible DC and a former summer intern. A senior and English major at Yale University, Thomas hails from southern Maryland and was last year was awarded a Yale CIPE Summer Journalism Fellowship at
INDY Week. He is a staff writer for Yale's The Politic and writes about food, politics, and culture.

Edible Afield: Baltimore - Charm City Hot Spots to Savor

By Marisa Dobson + Photography by Tom McCorkle

Raw bar and a "Sharkbite" at Dylan's.

Skip the clogged summer highways and hop on the MARC train to Baltimore for a surprisingly vibrant and exciting urban adventure—one that’ll have you questioning all you thought you knew about “Bmore.” Recently named one of the New York Times’ “52 Places to Go in 2018,” I’m not the only one who has fallen in love with Charm City.

Baltimore was and is a haven for industry (visit the Museum of Industry or sign up for a tour of OpenWorks), has a rich literary and artistic history (note the love of Poe, and tour the Baltimore Museum of Art for free) and is a cultural and social locus for many in the African-American community (W.E.B. DuBois resided near Lake Montebello; before there was the NMAAHC, there was the Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History & Culture).

Far more than hons, crab cakes and arabbers, Baltimore is a complex tapestry of different cultures, ethnicities, accents and neighborhoods. Nowhere is this more on display than in our city’s restaurants and bars. But first, where to drop your bags?

If you’re not on a budget, stay at The Ivy. Baltimore’s only Relais & Chateaux delivers on its promise of romance and intimate luxury. There are only 18 rooms in this gorgeous boutique hotel, so make your reservation early. Check in in time to enjoy afternoon tea and schedule a service at the spa. Pick up a map from the concierge to orient yourselves to the Mount Vernon neighborhood.

Mt. Vernon neighborhood.

Staying in Mount Vernon is ideal—it’s centrally located, packed with charming historic buildings and steps away from attractions like the Washington Monument, the Walters Art Museum (free admission), the George Peabody Library (an Instagram mecca) and unique retail. Another buzzy hotel is set to open in this neighborhood this May: Hotel Revival. With 107 rooms, it should be a little easier to score a reservation, while still providing a boutique guest experience. Two new dining concepts are slated to open in the hotel, helmed by Executive Chef Wilbur Cox and Bar Manager Chelsea Gregoire. Square Meal will serve New American repasts for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Topside is a much-anticipated rooftop bar, pairing seafood-centric dishes with local craft beers.

Hotel Revival to open this spring in Mt. Vernon. Photo courtesy of the hotel.

Start sliding into staycation mode at Wet City (223 W. Chase St.). This minimalist bar is filled with blond wood, great drafts and even better snacks. Owned by siblings, the collaborative spirit is all-encompassing as evidenced by frequent guest chef pop-ups.

If an iconic dive bar is more your scene, head up the street to Club Charles (1724 N. Charles St.). The crowd is always diverse, fun and welcoming (if you’re lucky, you’ll spot John Waters). The drinks are as strong as they should be, and the couches are surprisingly cozy.

When you’ve drunk your fill, feed your soul at Ida B’s Table (235 Holliday St.). One of Eater’s “Hottest New Restaurants,” this happening spot serves modern soul food as conceived by Chef David Thomas, and hosts live music every Friday and Saturday night. Start with the delectable Octopus Po’Boys, and order a weekend special like Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast with fried Brussels sprouts tossed in balsamic bourbon, served with three hoecakes and caramelized curried apples. Indulge in one of Tonya Thomas’ seasonal bread puddings, and a nightcap from the ever-evolving cocktail menu by Joseph Weeks and his team.

Sleep soundly knowing you spent your first day well, and that tomorrow requires a little more adventuring! If it’s Saturday morning, head to the Waverly Farmers Market (400 E. 32nd St.). Hands-down my favorite farmers market in the city, it’s also the best place to order unforgettable biscuit sandwiches from Blacksauce Kitchen (you’ll know it by the line). Zeke’s Coffee is right across from the Blacksauce stand, and there’s also Love Water Juice if you’re in need of an all-natural pick-me-up. Most weekends there’s also fresh local flowers, donuts, handpies, lox and an array of organic produce and pasture-raised meats.

Famous breakfast sandwiches from the Blacksauce Kitchen at the Waverly Farmers Market.

Jams at the Waverly Farmers Market.

Keep your options open with a pit stop at R House for lunch (301 W. 29th St.). This new food hall is offering whatever you’re craving (pizza, poke, hearty vegan salads, bibimbap) and has a regularly rotating pop-up stand to keep things fresh. In the warmer months, they open up the garage doors to make a lovely wraparound breezeway, perfect for sipping a cocktail al fresco. A block or so down the street is BWillow (220 W. 27th St.), a dreamy plant shop owned and operated by Renaissance woman Liz Vayda. Pick up a few babies to restock your terrarium, or take home handmade decorative crafts by local artisans.

R House food hall.

You’ve earned your queso fundido. Now it’s time for dinner at Clavel (225 W. 23rd St.). Don’t be put off by the industrial surroundings; you’ll be completely transported once you’re inside. Handmade tortillas (a fifth-generation recipe!) wrap carnitas, cochinita, huitlacoche, lengua and more. An open kitchen lets you observe the masters at work, and you’ll probably spot owner Lane Harlan as she roams the dining room. The mezcal program is unmatched in the city, so take your time and sample something new.

Perhaps it’s Sunday morning now, and you’re sipping coffee in your pillow-stuffed hotel bed. If you drove in and feel like living like a local, I have three far-flung recommendations.

Silver Queen Café (5429 Harford Rd.) in the Hamilton-Lauraville neighborhood is the best kind of family-friendly joint, with inventive daily specials that overdeliver every time (think Chorizo Fries with Jalapeño Mornay Sauce). A devoted play area means that you get to enjoy every last bite while the kids are occupied. Cocina Luchadoras (253 S. Broadway) is brand new to the Broadway strip. This woman-owned Mexican counter and takeout has taken the city by storm with its tamales and tacos. Within a couple months of opening, Rosalyn’s tacos ended up on the cover of Baltimore magazine. Minnow (2 E. Wells St.) in South Baltimore is the latest venture from La Cuchara chef/owner Ben Lefenfeld. A seafood-focused spot (with a crunchy chicken sandwich to boot), the brunch scene here is a scene—and fun flashy cocktails like the Velvet Underground keep the Boomerangs bouncing.

If you’d rather stick to exploring one neighborhood, head on over to Hampden. “The Avenue” is famous for its restaurants and shopping. You’ll want to snap a pic of the giant flamingo outside of Café Hon. Pop into Atomic Books (3620 Falls Rd.) for its awesome array of graphic novels and art books and grab a cold cider from the back bar. Or maybe it’s time for something cold and sweet? The Charmery (801 W. 36th St.) is everyone’s favorite, for good reason. Inventive flavors like Old Bay Caramel tickle your fancy while the aroma of fresh waffle cones beckons.

"The Avenue" houses shops and restaurants for visitors and Baltimore locals alike.

Next, check out Union Collective (1700 W. 41st St.). Set to open in May/June, this 138,000-square-foot space will house Union Craft Brewing, Well Crafted Kitchen, The Baltimore Whiskey Company, Earth Treks (should you feel the urge to work off some of your indulgences on the wall) and more. Or, grab a coffee and fancy toast at Artifact (1500 Union Ave.); this all-day café from Spike and Amy Gjerde brews Counter Culture coffee and has an adjacent green space for an impromptu picnic.

All this walking and sampling has hopefully helped you work up an appetite by now, so you’re ready for dinner at Cosima (3000 Falls Rd., Mill No. 1). Follow the neon sign around the cobblestoned hairpin turn and hand over the keys to the valet (complimentary!). Longtime beloved restaurateur Donna Crivello continues to impress with a high-end Italian program. The indoor grotto-like space is wonderful for date night, while the deck overlooking Jones Falls is perfect for people-watching on summer evenings. Make a reservation for Sunday night and indulge in Mangia!—a Sunday-night special that’s an absolute steal: three courses, served family style for $35 per person.

Cosima offers a Sunday night special with three family-style courses for just $35 a person.

You might also try Dylan’s Oyster Cellar (3601 Chestnut Ave.). My favorite raw bar in a city for seafood, it’s worth splurging on the Kusshi oysters from Washington or the Cherrystone clams from Virginia. Don’t miss the opportunity to try the Coddie, a traditional favorite that’s been updated just enough. Beautiful handmade ceramics dot the tables, and the decor somehow feels up-to-the-minute trendy while also feeling very Baltimore (maybe it’s the polished booths and tiled floors?).

The Season's Change cocktail at Dylan's.

End the evening at The Bluebird Cocktail Room (3600 Hickory Ave). This sexy, literary-themed bar offers a seasonal cocktail menu, ranging from $10 to $16. The spring menu features Miss Havisham (a twist on a pisco sour), White Rabbit (carrots and amaro), the Santiago (Old Fashioned with a limited-edition rum) and more. Entry is first come, first served and on weekend nights, there may be a wait. But, they’ve smartly provided porch swings and fairy lights to keep spirits high. Once inside, the velvet couches and chandeliers provide the perfect Old World setting for peacocking about the latest novel you’ve read.

The Bluebird Cocktail Room. Photo courtesy of The Bluebird.

It’s checkout time, but before you head out of town, grab a late breakfast or early lunch from The Corner Pantry (6080 Falls Rd.). One of the best casual lunch spots (and fortunately open on Mondays!), this British-inspired café can always be counted on for inventive salads and properly satisfying curried chicken sandwiches. Or, swing by a Baltimore legend: Attman’s Delicatessen (1019 E. Lombard St.; free parking in adjacent lot). Since 1915, this classic joint has been slinging corned beef, pastrami, crunchy pickles and western fries. All of Baltimore comes through here for overstuffed sandwiches—and in a city divided and rapidly changing, it’s a wonderful reminder of our common humanity.

Pro tip: Much like #ACreativeDC, check out the #MyBmore hashtag or the Instagram account @TheBmoreCreatives for an up-to-the-second account of what’s happening around town.

A Field Guide to Holiday Lights & Nearby Eats & Drinks

By Tim Ebner

National Christmas Tree

The Ellipse: Look for giant toy soldiers guarding the doors at Old Ebbitt Grill, just a few blocks from the National Christmas Tree. You’ll want to head straight to the raw bar for half-off oyster specials during happy hour (3–6pm) and late night (11pm to close).  

Parade of Lights

600 Water St. SW: Warm up with a winter cocktail at Ashlar, located inside the Kimpton’s Hotel Monaco. Get into the holiday spirit with drinks like the Sherry Cobbler #2, served with Dewar’s Blended Scotch, bianco vermouth and Alexandro Cream Sherry. 

Zoo Lights

3001 Connecticut Ave. NW: For hearty pub fare and a children-friendly option, head to Duke’s Counter, located across the street from the National Zoo. Bring an appetite because their “sarnies” (or sandwiches) can easily feed two.  

Georgetown Glow

Georgetown canal area and waterfront: Escape the madness of M Street by recharging and re-caffeinating at Grace Street Coffee Roasters, an independent, locally owned coffee company that’s new to Georgetown. 

 Christmas on the Potomac  

National Harbor, 201 Waterfront St.: Chef Edward Lee has been adding a Southern twang to National Harbor’s dining scene for about a year now. His restaurant, Succotash, serves a variety of shared plates, including Southern-style wings, pimento cheese and skillet cornbread.  

 Miracle on 34th Street  

720 W. 34th St., Hampden: Le Garage is a few blocks north of Miracle on 34th Street and offers a dive hideaway with an expansive beer list, the best french fries in Baltimore and a variety of tartines (open-faced sandwiches).  

 Festival of Lights and Carols  

The Mormon Temple, 9900 Stoneybrook Dr., Kensington: Swing by Jenny Cakes Bakery in Kensington and pick up some holiday sweets before your visit to the Mormon Temple. This cute little bakery is tucked away in the Kensington historic district and serves mouthwatering cupcakes, cakes and cookies.  

 Festival of Lights

Watkins Regional Park, 301 Watkins Park Dr. (Route 193), Upper Marlboro, MD: Breakfast for dinner? Or Southern fried chicken? Both are possible at Mrs. K’s Restaurant, known as a “hometown, home-cooked, hole-in-the wall” place that has a local following for all-day breakfast and soul food. Open every day but Sunday ’til 8pm. 

 Annapolis Light Parade  

Annapolis Harbor and Spa Creek: Head away from the crowds, up Main Street, to Preserve. Obsessed with Mid-Atlantic cuisine, Chef Jeremy Hoffman pickles many local ingredients to last through winter. Try the pickled platter of root vegetables—served in a Mason jar—and a seasonal cocktail. 

 Garden of Lights

Brookside Gardens, 1800 Glenallan Ave.,Wheaton: Wheaton is a wonderland of cheap eats. To bring the heat and spice to your holiday look no further than Ruan Thai. Favorite dishes include grilled pork with spicy sauce and fried whole flounder with chili and basil. 

 Bull Run Festival of Lights

7700 Bull Run Dr., Centreville: To fend off December’s chill, head to Vit Goel Tofu for steaming bowls of tofu soup. This tucked-away Korean restaurant has a variety of vegetarian soup options, like soondubu, which comes with a whole egg to crack open and into the stew. 

 Winter Walk of Lights

Meadowlark Botanical Gardens, 9750 Meadowlark Gardens Ct., Vienna: Clarity Chefs Jon Krinn and Jason Maddens consistently get top nods in northern Virginia for delicious and creative cuisine. Dishes like cold-smoked diver scallops, braised lamb ragout and local tomato salad get rave reviews. 

 Festival of Lights and Carols  

Old Town Hall, 3999 University Dr., Fairfax: Bring the heat to the holidays with tsukemen, a nontraditional ramen, where the noodles are slightly thicker and served alongside a firey orange dipping sauce. At Marumen Ramen Shop in Fairfax, each bowl comes with a hearty helping of sides. Choose from options including pork belly, pickled cabbage and creamy buttersweet corn. 

Illustration by Mabel and Maggie. Artists Sarah Bohl and Mary DeStefano make hand-drawn and hand-lettered maps, cocktail cards and a variety of other paper products. mabelandmaggie.com