Sommelier Troy Knapp Spills the Tea on His Favorite Nonalcoholic Beverage

By Tim Ebner | Photography by Jen Chase | Edible DC

Tea may not have the terroir of Burgundy or Provence, but Troy Knapp, a Level 2 sommelier and a Level 2 tea taster, says there are several connections that bridge wine and tea—two drinks steeped in craftsmanship and history. 

“I believe there are so many textural components to tea that relate so nicely to wine,” Knapp says. “Obviously there are tannins in both and, like wine, tea is built upon this extraordinary process of tradition. Both winemakers and tea makers put purpose and reason in the glass.”

In the District, Knapp is somewhat of a tea evangelist this year, converting many wine collectors into tea enthusiasts too—and yes, Knapp does, in fact, have a tea cellar as well as a wine cellar.

“Tea also has this incredible wellness factor as a nonalcoholic beverage,” Knapp says. “It is rich in antioxidants, and even can help reduce stress, inflammation, help with sleep or lower cholesterol.”

But where Knapp thinks teas truly shines are with food pairings.

“I think there’s just this dynamic relationship between the beverage we sip and the food we eat,” he says. “While wine can certainly be an excellent accompaniment, I’m trying to show people that teas can do the trick too.” 

Beginning April 18, the Conrad Hotel’s Chesapeake-inspired restaurant Estuary, from brothers Michael and Bryan Voltaggio, will offer weekly tea service featuring three specialty teas paired with three light-bite courses. It’s a menu available every Saturday for $45 at an exclusive five-seat counter.

“Unlike wine, which has so many different regions and styles, tea is essentially broken down into only five categories,” Knapp says. “And to make it even easier, those all originate from the same tea plant: Camellia sinensis.”

The distinction between teas comes to oxygen transfer in a process that most of us know as oxidation—or what happens to an apple when it’s sliced open and becomes brown after several hours pass.

On the less oxidized, and consequently lighter and brighter, side are green and white teas, which Knapp says take on qualities like a crisp, mineral-rich wine, such as a Sauvignon Blanc. 

Meanwhile, darker and more heavily oxidized teas, such as black and oolongs, can match a full-bodied wine, like a Madeira or Bordeaux blend. Then, there’s Knapp’s favorite tea category: pu’erh, a fermented tea. 

“That process involves aging the tea, then pressing it into dense cakes,” he says. “With pu’erh there can be this great range of flavors, including earthy, peaty or woodsy, depending on how long the tea was aged.” 

While the flavors might seem complex and challenging, Knapp believes brewing tea is even easier than brewing up a pot of coffee. All you need is some hot water, preferably brewed to about 175°F, and a stainless infuser filled with some fresh tea leaves. 

“I like to tell people to brew and drink tea to their tastes,” Knapp says. “It’s almost an experiment every time you drink.” 

For tea shops with a wide variety of Eastern- and Western-style teas, Knapp recommends Ching Ching Cha in Georgetown; Calabash in Shaw; and Teaism, with multiple locations in downtown DC, Penn Quarter and Dupont Circle.