Updated Classic: Coq Au Vin
/
By Susan Able, with Chef Ed Scarpone, photography by Jennifer Chase
In our Winter 2019 issue, we asked three chefs to share with us updated takes on some tried-and-true crowd pleaser classics. Chef Ed Scarpone, the culinary director at the Schlow Restaurant Group, was happy to join in, and gave us his takes on Coq Au Vin and its perfect mate, a French Onion Soup with a twist.
Chef Ed Scarpone explained his choice and unique preparation:
I was really excited to get this assignment from Edible DC, and of course I had to do coq au vin, because—and this is true—this is the dish that got me into cooking originally. When I was only 19, I was a stage at Daniel Boulud’s restaurant Daniel in New York City. Of course, I had heard about this dish in school and one night, at the end of a long shift, they served it to me as my staff meal. It was the warmest, most comforting, most simple dish. Its flavors blew my mind and made me want to cook like this. I worked at Daniel for 10 years, and moved to DC to open DGBG. I’m now working as a culinary director, teaching, designing menus and training the cookstaff at the Schlow Restaurant Group. I’m a problem solver and I love it, but my passion is fine dining and it was all really sparked by eating coq au vin at 19.
So my take on the recipe in this version is unique. Usually you make coq au vin with chicken legs and thighs, but here I make it with wings. So this is a rustic dish that is meant to be picked up and eaten, with a sauce that is so luxurious it could go on everything. It’s meant to be finger food. You’ll get a little dirty—just wash your hands.
Coq au Vin
Serves 6-8.
Ingredients:
1 white onion
3 pieces celery
1 carrot
5 pounds chicken wings (flats and drums)
3 bottles red wine (preferably Burgundy but definitely something drinkable)
1 bottle cooking port wine
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound thick-cut bacon; cut bacon into ½-inch pieces
1 pound cremini mushrooms (cut in half)
5 quarts veal stock (Note: NOT broth, it must be STOCK. Store-bought is OK, but homemade is better.)
5 sprigs thyme
¼ pound butter
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
To make:
Quarter the onion, cut the celery and carrot into 3 pieces and place with the chicken in a plastic container and pour in all 4 bottles of wine. Place in the fridge overnight.
The next day, strain the chicken and vegetables and keep on the side.
Place a pot on the stove on medium heat, add the olive oil. Add the carrots, celery, thyme, cremini mushrooms and bacon and brown for 10 minutes, making sure not to let things burn. Once browned, add the reserved wine to pan and reduce on medium heat until you are left with 4 ounces of liquid.
Season the chicken wings on both sides with salt and pepper. In a nonstick pan, brown the seasoned chicken wings on both sides in small batches making sure to get even color. Place the browned wings in the reduced wine making sure not to get oil in the pot. Once the chicken is cooked, add the veal stock and bring to a boil, immediately cut off heat and let sit for 15 minutes.
Remove the chicken, leaving everything else in the pot with the liquid. Reduce until the sauce generously coats the back of a spoon and strain through a strainer. Add the butter, let it melt in. Then season to taste with salt and pepper, add the herbs and place over chicken to serve.
@edscarpone
Chef Ed Scarpone, culinary director of the Schlow Restaurant Group whose restaurants include The Riggsby, Casolore, Tico, Alto Strada, Prima and Nama. Scarpone previously was chef at DBGB Kitchen + Bar and Fiola.
Photo by Jennifer Chase
