Updated Classic: Coq Au Vin

By Susan Able, with Chef Ed Scarpone, photography by Jennifer Chase

In our Winter 2019 issue, we asked three chefs to share with us updated takes on some tried-and-true crowd pleaser classics. Chef Ed Scarpone, the culinary director at the Schlow Restaurant Group, was happy to join in, and gave us his takes on Coq Au Vin and its perfect mate, a French Onion Soup with a twist.

Chef Ed Scarpone explained his choice and unique preparation:

I was really excited to get this assignment from Edible DC, and of course I had to do coq au vin, because—and this is true—this is the dish that got me into cooking originally. When I was only 19, I was a stage at Daniel Boulud’s restaurant Daniel in New York City. Of course, I had heard about this dish in school and one night, at the end of a long shift, they served it to me as my staff meal. It was the warmest, most comforting, most simple dish. Its flavors blew my mind and made me want to cook like this. I worked at Daniel for 10 years, and moved to DC to open DGBG. I’m now working as a culinary director, teaching, designing menus and training the cookstaff at the Schlow Restaurant Group. I’m a problem solver and I love it, but my passion is fine dining and it was all really sparked by eating coq au vin at 19.            

So my take on the recipe in this version is unique. Usually you make coq au vin with chicken legs and thighs, but here I make it with wings. So this is a rustic dish that is meant to be picked up and eaten, with a sauce that is so luxurious it could go on everything. It’s meant to be finger food. You’ll get a little dirty—just wash your hands.

Coq au Vin

Serves 6-8.

Ingredients:

1 white onion

3 pieces celery

1 carrot

5 pounds chicken wings (flats and drums)

3 bottles red wine (preferably Burgundy but definitely something drinkable)

1 bottle cooking port wine

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound thick-cut bacon; cut bacon into ½-inch pieces

1 pound cremini mushrooms (cut in half)

5 quarts veal stock (Note: NOT broth, it must be STOCK. Store-bought is OK, but homemade is better.)

5 sprigs thyme

¼ pound butter

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon chopped tarragon

1 tablespoon chopped chives

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

To make:

Quarter the onion, cut the celery and carrot into 3 pieces and place with the chicken in a plastic container and pour in all 4 bottles of wine. Place in the fridge overnight.

The next day, strain the chicken and vegetables and keep on the side.

Place a pot on the stove on medium heat, add the olive oil. Add the carrots, celery, thyme, cremini mushrooms and bacon and brown for 10 minutes, making sure not to let things burn. Once browned, add the reserved wine to pan and reduce on medium heat until you are left with 4 ounces of liquid.

Season the chicken wings on both sides with salt and pepper. In a nonstick pan, brown the seasoned chicken wings on both sides in small batches making sure to get even color. Place the browned wings in the reduced wine making sure not to get oil in the pot. Once the chicken is cooked, add the veal stock and bring to a boil, immediately cut off heat and let sit for 15 minutes.

Remove the chicken, leaving everything else in the pot with the liquid. Reduce until the sauce generously coats the back of a spoon and strain through a strainer. Add the butter, let it melt in. Then season to taste with salt and pepper, add the herbs and place over chicken to serve.

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@edscarpone

Chef Ed Scarpone, culinary director of the Schlow Restaurant Group whose restaurants include The Riggsby, Casolore, Tico, Alto Strada, Prima and Nama. Scarpone previously was chef at DBGB Kitchen + Bar and Fiola.

Photo by Jennifer Chase

Make a Restaurant Dish at Home: The Mi Vida Posole Rojo

Chef Roberto Santibañez shares a popular Mexican stew

By Chef Roberto Santibañez and the Mi Vida team, special to Edible DC

There is really no translation for this big, hearty soup/stew of pork and pozole—what is known in the states as hominy. Pozole are corn kernels that are treated with limestone to swell the kernels and remove their skins. If you can get freshly made pozole, there is nothing better, but canned hominy is ready a few minutes after adding it to the pot and using the liquid from the can adds good flavor, too. 

Tips from Chef Roberto before you begin:

• A great Pozole begins with great hominy that has been nixtamalized (cooking the corn at a low temperature with “cal” also known as slacked lime or Calcium Hydroxide). If possible, try to get hominy from a Mexican Tortilleria or bodega as they most likely serve it fresh.

• If you have to buy hominy canned, make sure the ingredients list only corn, water and lime (slacked lime or Calcium Hydroxide). The best canned hominy found at a supermarket is typically Bush’s brand.

• The second most important part to a Pozole is the broth. It’s traditionally made with pork but can be substituted with chicken or any meat of choice. It’s very important to add bones to create a collagen-rich broth.

• The seasonings in the broth are an integral part to the recipe as well. It’s important to be patient and cook the chiles, tomatoes and spices low and slow to concentrate the flavors.

• Garnishes vary, but traditionally, crunchy tortillas, lettuce, oregano and radishes top the Pozole.

Pozole Rojo

Makes 6 generous servings

For the sauce (broth)

• 2 large tomatoes (about 1 pound)

• 1 small white onion, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices

• 5 to 6 large ancho chilies (about 3 ounces), cleaned, stemmed, seeded, toasted and soaked

• 10 large garlic cloves (about ½ cup)

• ½ teaspoon allspice berries

•  2 tablespoons vegetable oil

For the pozole

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 large white onion, finely chopped

• 10 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• 1 tablespoon dried oregano

• 1 rack (2 pounds) baby back spare ribs, cut between the bones into individual ribs

• 1 tablespoon salt

• 1 large bunch cilantro, folded in half and tied into a neat bundle with kitchen twine

• One 4-pound chicken, cut into 10 pieces

• Four 15-ounce cans pozole, with liquid

• 2 poblano chilies, roasted, peeled and coarsely chopped 

For the toppings:

• 1 head romaine lettuce, wilted leaves and core removed, cut into ½-inch strips

• 2 bunches radishes, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch slices

• 4 limes, cut in half

• Chili de arbol powder, or a chili powder of your choice

• Dried oregano

Make the sauce: Set the rack about 8 inches from the broiler and preheat the broiler to low. Arrange the tomatoes and onion slices on a broiler pan in a single layer and cook, turning once, until blackened in spots and softened, about 12 minutes. When cool enough, slip off the tomato skins. Working in batches if necessary, blend the tomatoes, onion, anchos, garlic, and allspice berries until very smooth. Add up to 1 cup water (total, not to each batch) if necessary to make a smooth puree. 

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Pour in the puree and cook, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened. Control the heat so the sauce doesn’t spatter. Pour in 1 cup water and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the sauce is simmering and cook, stirring occasionally, 1 hour. Add small amounts of water from time to time to keep the sauce more or less at the same consistency. The sauce can be made up to 2 days in advance. Refrigerate until needed.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 5-quart heavy pot or casserole over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and oregano. Cook, stirring, until the onion is softened, about 4 minutes. Pour in 4 quarts water, add the spare ribs and salt, and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the liquid is simmering and cook 45 minutes. The broth can be made up to a day in advance. Refrigerate and bring to a simmer before continuing.

Stir in the sauce and add the cilantro. Return to the simmer and cook 15 minutes. Add the chicken legs, thighs and wings. Cook 15 minutes.

Add the chicken breasts, pozole with its liquid, and poblanos. Bring to a simmer and cook until the chicken is cooked through and the pork is tender, about 15 minutes.

While the pozole is finishing up, put whichever toppings you are using in appropriate size bowls and set them on the table. To serve, ladle the pozole into deep warm bowls, including some of each ingredient in every bowl. Pass the toppings around the table, letting people add them as they like.

To turn this into a real feast and serve with Tostadas and Refried Black Beans. Let people spread their tostadas with the beans and munch on them in between spoonfuls of pozole.

First-of-Spring Radish Salad with Burrata

This delicious salad can go from light lunch to dinner, just add a glass of wine!

By Emily Connor, Photography by Jennifer Chase

Nothing quite screams “spring” to me like the first radishes that hit the farm stands. Here I’ve thinly sliced and marinated radishes in a spunky lemon-anchovy vinaigrette, tossed them with peppery watercress and served them up with creamy, glorious burrata. It’s a low effort, high impact salad that can easily go from light lunch to appetizer (especially with crostini) to a first course for dinner.

First-of-Spring Radish Salad with Burrata
4 servings

• 8 to 10 medium-sized radishes (about ½ pound), thinly sliced

• 2 tablespoons fresh mint, finely chopped

• A few big handfuls of watercress, arugula or radish greens (if they’re tender), about 1 to 2 cups

• 8 ounces burrata, at room temperature

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Crostini for serving (optional)

Lemon-anchovy vinaigrette

• 3 flat-fillet anchovies

• 1 tablespoon minced shallot

• 1 teaspoon capers, coarsely chopped

• Finely grated zest plus 2 tablespoons juice from 1 lemon

• Kosher salt, to taste

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Make the lemon-anchovy vinaigrette. Mince and smash the anchovies into a paste with the side of your knife. In a small bowl or jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the anchovies, shallots, capers, lemon zest and juice, and a few pinches of salt. Let macerate for 5 minutes, then add the olive oil, shaking to emulsify. Taste and adjust the acid and seasoning.

In a small bowl, combine radishes and mint. Add all of the vinaigrette, tossing to fully coat the radishes. Let marinate for at least 10 minutes (or up to 30 minutes) in the refrigerator. 

To assemble the salad, strain the radishes with a slotted spoon (or with your hands) to remove as much vinaigrette as possible, and pile them on 1 side of a serving platter. Toss with the watercress; there should be enough vinaigrette clinging to the radishes to dress the greens. Add the burrata next to the salad. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and drizzle a little olive oil over the top. Serve immediately, with crostini on the side (if using).