To Italy & Back

Clean, Authentic Coastal Italian in Navy Yard

By Natalie Flynn

Photos by Vina Sananikone

The thin flaky Focaccia de Formagio is the signature bread of a particular spot on the northern Italian coastlin

Beckoned by the bright-orange awning, patrons arrive at Ama and are transported to the Ligurian coast of Italy. At the open bancone window they discover an array of sweet and savory delights and pause to enjoy an espresso from the gleaming Elektra machine standing sentry. The Italian barista operating its elaborate cranks and levers recommends a cappuccino for dunking pieces of a freshly baked cornetto. The pastry’s crisp exterior and slightly sweet, zesty interior round out this authentic Italian moment.

Before you even step through the doors of Ama, you can feel the generous spirit of coastal Italy, spilling out onto the sidewalk in a warm, open invitation. It’s the kind of place that makes you pause—whether for a moment or an entire afternoon—as if the breeze might suddenly carry you across the Ligurian Sea and back again. This is a place designed to welcome, to invite lingering, to enjoy.

Make a habit of stopping by and you’ll soon be greeted as a friend, a hospitality that hints at what chef and owner Johanna Hellrigl has created with Ama. It’s a reflection of her Italian heritage, and the desire to create true sustainability that nurtures both planet and people.
“The same place you go to get your cafè and cornetto in the morning is the same space you would go to get an aperitivo at night,” she states, which is why Ama is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

The creative and refreshingly pure food draws inspiration from Hellrigl’s Ligurian and Tyrolean roots. Unique flavors—chestnut flour, rye, and speck—give guests a taste of a special place and way of life.

Ama celebrates the food and soul of Liguria, a quietly radiant region tucked along Italy’s northern coast. Just beyond the glamour of Portofino and the postcard charm of Cinque Terre, Liguria’s smaller seaside towns hum with a slower rhythm—fewer crowds, more locals, and an effortless elegance. The air carries the scent of sea salt, rosemary, and olive oil—ingredients treated not as trends but as trusted companions.

Hellrigl has bottled that essence and brought it to Ama, crafting a space and menu that honor simplicity, freshness, and deep connection to place.

Many of her ingredients are imported directly from traditional Italian producers, most of whom she has known for years. If she cannot source something from Italy, Hellrigl works with local farmers and artisans to replicate the quality or flavor here. The basil leaves required for her Trofie con Pasta Genovese are grown by Lancaster Farms, from a specific strain that matches the Ligurian version, which has smaller leaves than American basil. Served with green beans and potato, this is a hearty dish that arrives on the table a striking verdant shade of green.

One of the stars of Ama’s bread menu is the Focaccia di Formaggio, a paper-thin delicacy filled with soft stracchino cheese, served steaming from the oven. Far different from the fluffy focaccias common in the United States, experts in Italian cuisine will recognize this dish as the Ligurian Focaccia di Recco, found exclusively in a group of villages along the northern Ligurian coast. But “Recco” is a geographically protected and certified product that not just anyone can serve, so paying homage to this dish and honoring its cultural heritage means using a different name. “Putting this dish on Ama’s menu was a goal of mine for eight years since conceptualizing Ama,” she states, specifically because, “this is something that people wouldn’t think of as focaccia.”
The daughter of Italian parents, Hellrigl grew up traveling between the States and Italy, where the rhythms of daily life and the ritual of meals left an indelible mark. That cross-cultural foundation is at the heart of Ama—a place shaped by her deep understanding of how food, people, and place come together in harmony.

“What I really focus on is slow living, slow food, ultimately honoring the way I was raised and what I ate as a child, which was very much whole, unprocessed foods that were made from scratch as best as possible. I realize what a luxury that is in today’s world of being on the go.”
This approach is supported by ten pillars that comprise the Ama mission: “Where indulgence coexists seamlessly with nourishment, community, and connection—where every bite fosters not just pleasure but also vitality.” This means thoughtful labor and sourcing practices, a restaurant free of additives, preservatives, and nontoxic practices that go beyond the plate.

“You can source the best ingredients and do the fancy techniques, but if you’re putting hot liquids into single-use deli containers, or polycarbonate containers (that leach chemicals into food) in the kitchen, and not truly understanding the impact that has on people’s health, we’re just doing people a disservice in trusting us to take care of them.” At Ama there are no microplastics, to-go cups are biodegradable within 180 days, and tables are cleaned with ozonated water. Hellrigl sources from producers who practice regenerative farming, a technique that leaves the soil healthier year over year.

Inside Ama, the spaces echo this spirit. The long convivial bar, the light-filled dining room, the private gathering space—each offers its own moment of calm, equally suited to a spontaneous morning espresso or a lingering evening meal. Visit Ama, and you’ll see Hellrigl quietly orchestrating a symphony of flavor and hospitality. One moment she’s in the bar behind the bancone, the next she’s walking the floor and chatting with guests or positioned at a service station perfectly placed in the center of the space that allows her to manage both kitchen and dining room with practiced grace.

Respect for Italy extends to the wine and beverage menu, curated by Johanna’s husband and business partner, Micah Wilder. A deep appreciation for nature drew the couple together, and the cocktail menu is reflective of their love for herbalism. The driving force behind their cocktails is a question posed by Hellrigl, “How do you have beverages with a functional purpose for people? Dried herbs, tinctures, digestive bitters, no dyes or additives; it all stems from looking back at Italian culture for the functionality and purpose.” In addition to providing a robust zero-proof Ama crafts every drink without refined sugar.

“The beauty is that the beverage program matches the ethos of the food, a mission bigger than us—taking care of our community.”

Hellrigl has cultivated “the romanticism of Italy,” an atmosphere reminiscent of what she experienced growing up, “where the local restaurant where my mom grew up remembers my favorite drink, my favorite food.” At Ama, which is named for the word for love in Italian, she has built a team who follows this ethos, taking care of their guests’ health and wellness as the foundation of her restaurant’s culture.

“Ama is our love story,” says Johanna. “I’ve been trying to build this restaurant as a case study of why we love being in hospitality. What is it for? We do it for the love of people and community.”

Ama is the romanticism of Italy brought to life, even if you’ve never been.

Ama
885 New Jersey Ave SE, Washington, DC 20003
amarestaurant.bar

Opposite: The bancone. window beacons passersby to pause and enjoy a coffee and one of Chef Johanna Hellrigl's stunning pastries.
Chef Hellrigl’s seasonal pastries

Natalie Flynn has worked in the food and beverage industry for 20 years. She is passionate about all the hidden gems and new spots that continue to grace our
city and surrounding counties.

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