Bourbon Trail

by Susan Able, EdibleDC Publisher

A highlight of a holiday trip home to southern Indiana was a daytrip down to Kentucky to hop on the Bourbon Trail.

Over 95% of all bourbon is produced in Kentucky, where the geology creates water sources that are filtered through limestone, which is uniquely suited to bourbon making. And while all bourbon is whiskey, not all whiskey is bourbon. Bourbon is defined as being produced in the U.S. and made from corn, well at least 51%. Most of the distilleries use local corn, often from only a few sources. Woodford Reserve proudly told us that all their corn came from one farmer in Shelby County, KY and that it was “non-GMO.” Good for them, Woodford is owned by Brown Forman, a corporation that has made its fortune in tobacco, so apparently non-GMO corn for their bourbon is a step in the right direction.

Bourbon is also made in new American oak barrels that are charred. The barrels are not reused, well, at least for bourbon. They are now in high demand by beer makers and wine makers, and often shipped to Europe from Kentucky to sherry and port makers to use. There are also guidelines on it’s proof—it is distilled to no more than 160 proof, entered into the barrel for aging at 125 proof (so they add water to get it there), and bottled at 80 proof.

We started in Frankfort, KY at Buffalo Trace—which makes several premium brands, including the lauded Pappy Van Winkle. It is one of the oldest distilleries in KY and the warehouses date back to the 1800s. It was amazing how unautomated the process of bourbon making was—it still is a low tech process that largely involves getting the product right for its long rest until bottling, rolling the barrels by hand into place for aging, and labeling, bottling and packing by hand. Clearly, the demand for bourbon has gone sky high, but there is only so much bourbon to be had—because the aging process is what it is—no bourbon before its time. We inquired about the Pappy Van Winkle heist which happened at Buffalo Trace (read about it here), which is still unsolved.

After a great short tour that started with a little movie about bourbon and Kentucky, we got to taste a few products and a bourbon ball, a chocolate covered, bourbon-soaked confection that we all love from that part of the country. Then it was off to Woodward Reserve, with a drive through horse country to Versailles, KY and a visiting room that was more like Napa Valley than anything, with a gift shop, small café, endless fireplace, large tasting room and a well-organized tour to the distillery, warehouse and bottling shop. While the distillery is old, Woodford Reserve is a new brand created when Brown Forman acquired the distillery. Aged only to 9 years, with a climate-controlled warehouse to encourage faster aging, Woodford has quickly climbed the ranks with a quality product and a lot of marketing money. They plan to expand as quickly as they can build new warehouses—again, bourbon needs a place to rest for close to a decade before it becomes a higher rank player. But even at Woodford, with stunning solid copper distilling pots custom made in Scotland and cedar fermenting tanks for the mash—it still is a hands on operation run by a master distiller and a team—and after the barrels are filled they are still rolled to the warehouse on tracks that were put in around 1930. Which even with today’s technology seems the best way to get a 500 lb. barrel down a hill.

We ended up our day in Bardstown, the Bourbon Capital of the U.S. It’s a great small town, worth a visit on its own, but the day called us to Willet Distillery, maker of Willet (of course) and a couple of our other favorites, Rowan’s Creek and Noah’s Mill, two smaller batch bourbons. So much more to see, but next time for us, which will include a visit to Whiskey Row in Louisville on the "urban" Bourbon Trail.

Highly recommended—what’s better than sipping some bourbon, learning about a truly American craft industry and driving through bluegrass horse country munching on a bourbon ball? Oh yes, the gift shops sell those too.

Warm Gin Sling

by Brenden Mulder-Rosi, Beverage Director, Boundary Road

At their most essential, slings are nothing more than hot water and a base liquor. Although we've spiced this one up a little, simplicity is still the watchword. In this case, we're using two local products near and dear to our hearts. Perfect for larger gatherings, this can be kept warm in a crockpot or assembled individually. This recipe serves 1.

1 ounce Green Hat Gin

1/2 ounce Charm City Mead

1/2 ounce Clove Simple Syrup

4 ounces hot water

Mix all ingredients together in a heat-safe glass or mug. Garnish with freshly ground nutmeg.

To make the Clove Simple Syrup: Dissolve one cup dark brown sugar in one cup hot water. Simmer five to six cloves for every half cup of water for fifteen minutes or so.

Foie La La - Boundary Road on Foie Gras

By Susan Able, EdibleDC Publisher

We caught up with Chef Brad Walker from Boundary Road, last Friday on H Street, DC’s booming restaurant corridor. Walker worked with the Edible DC team as a collaborator for our Early Winter/Holiday issue and he prepared a festive dinner for friends. As a follow-up to that article, we wanted more information on what some would think was the most delicious dish from that meal and most would call the most controversial—the foie gras.

The recipe that Walker prepared was for the whole foie gras with sautéed apples, and he says, it’s the kind of dish that defines the celebratory richness of holiday entertaining and fits right in with the other icons of the holidays: caviar, truffles, champagne, and other rich, expensive cuts of meats and game. The problem is, (and there is always a problem, yes?), that foie gras has, as NY Chef Dan Barber says, “become the most maligned of foods. If you are a chef and put it on your menu, you can be at risk of attack. The problem for us chefs is that it is so freaking delicious; it makes everything else taste better.”

Walker had been approached by PETA earlier this week with an ask to not participate or serve foie gras at the currently running second Foie La La, a holiday food festival amongst eight H Street restaurants that features this organ meat.

For Walker, one of the originators of Foie La La, this request from PETA and the promise of a protest, it was an opportunity to step back, reflect and respond. Walker sources his foie gras at Hudson Valley Foie Gras, which has a total open door policy on its foie gras production and was featured by Anthony Bourdain on his network show, the point being that they feel comfortable that their ducks are being cared for and fed in a humane way. Walker feels that all consumers of meat need to ask questions about how it is raised, and where it comes from—and that we should be asking the same questions about all of our food—including fruits and vegetables--to question whether they were produced or grown sustainably, buying as locally and seasonally as possible and with the least impact to the environment. “I respect PETA and their organization, but they are focusing on this tiny part of the meat supply—I feel like we are missing some of the larger points about problems with our food chain and commoditized meat production. We need to respect all our food.”

With a protest scheduled this afternoon, Walker still stands by Foie La La. His letter in response to PETA is here. The foie gras dish he served this week is an appetizer-size portion and was inspired by the deconstructed look, feel and taste of Thanksgiving leftovers—it has a rutabaga bread and brussel sprout base, a slice of foie gras poached in chicken fat, is topped with a fried oyster and a cranberry gastrique finishes the dish.

To prepare foie gras at home, a whole one tastes better—but it is not an inexpensive proposition. A whole foie gras from the supplier D’Artagnan is $115.99 and that would serve 4 as an entrée, 8 to 10 for appetizers, or as torchons—perhaps 30 people.

Score the foie gras in a cross hatch pattern, whether you are cooking the whole thing or have sliced large slabs for individual portions and heat a good quality pan on very high heat—throw the meat in. It is very fatty, and will immediately start to cook down. Pour the fat off as it cooks, and save it for other uses. After it gets a good sear on both sides, take it off the heat and out of the pan—let it stand on a paper towel or put it in the oven at very low heat—you want the center to be warm, but not overcooked. And that’s it. For a link to the apple foie gras recipe in our Holiday issue go here.

Chef Brad Walker, 34, is from the Baltimore suburbs, trained to be a chef at L’Academie de Cuisine in Maryland after thinking about doing anything else but cooking—including foreign service or becoming an English professor—but he’d worked in restaurants since he was 15 and knew that he could make his way around a kitchen as well as the chefs he’s watched cook. And after college, working in Colorado as a waiter and front of the house manager taught him valuable lessons in managing service and the customer experience. He cooked on the line at Cashion’s Eat Place, Fiola and Proof before opening Boundary Road in 2012.

Chef Yo Inspired Izakaya Cuisine at Zentan

by AJ Dronkers, Digital Editor EdibleDC I had a chance to check out Zentan last night, where they are reimagining "izikaya" - a Japanese term meaning a casual drinking establishment where friends gather - under chef Yo Matsuzaki. Community tables, shared dishes, sake, and Asian-influenced cocktails create a cozy hang-out; I particularly enjoyed the Japanese "comfort foods" like Kaisen Dumplings and Nikomi Braised Short Rib Stew - very warming on a cold winter night!

Zentan is located at 1155 14th Street NW, Washington, DC 20005 and is at the base of the Donovan House Hotel.

12th Annual Farmland Feast Yields Generous Donors

by Susan Able, EdibleDC Publisher

photos by Tony Brown & imijination photography

D.C.’s largest farm-to-table event, FRESHFARM's Farmland Feast held on November 10 at the downtown Ritz Carlton was a smash hit—the biggest and best gala ever, raising over $350,000 for the nonprofit.The funds raised will support FRESHFARM Market’s food security and outreach programs during the year. A silent auction was the highlight of this year’s cocktail hour, “First at the Feast”, and the bidding during the live auction was spirited and competitive. Some of DC’s top chefs and mixologists wowed the crowed with terrific seasonal samplings—Tarver King from the Restaurant at Patowmack Farms deserves special recognition for his fabulous table décor, which looked as if it had come directly from the woods—as well as for his innovative fare.

Ann Yonkers, FRESHFARM co-founder and co-executive director, said, “We are thrilled with the success. The quality of food, spirits and wine were outstanding. We had over 50 FRESHFARM Market farmers and producers as guests who were sprinkled throughout the room who had the opportunity to meet and talk with Farmland Feast guests and supporters.”

After the First at the Feast cocktail hour wrapped, guests filed into the main ballroom for dinner. Ben Wenk, a seventh-generation farmer from Three Springs Fruit Farm in Pennsylvania, was the keynote speaker, engaging the audience with the story of his family’s heritage as farmers, and his new generational blood and ideas that have brought back traditional vegetable farming to a big apple operation. 

“I am working the same soil as my ancestors, honoring their sacrifice and devoting a new energy into their same struggles,” said Wenk. “I am striving to improve my family business and preserve my family’s land. Humbly appreciating the ways in which my work and my land improve me everyday. I am feeding my local foodshed with clean, wholesome food and maintaining the vibrancy of the natural world through our farming practices and doing it with a smile.”

His spirit was emblematic of the entire event—a true coming together of top food talent, leaders and supporters of the farm market, farm-to-table and locavore movement, journalists, foodies and citizen supporters of FRESHFARM’s mission and vision.

Boot Camp for Entrepreneurial Foodies

by Hannah York, special to Edible DC

I recently spent the day in Brookland participating in Local Food Lab’s food startup boot camp hosted by Mess Hall DC. For those who don’t know, Mess Hall DC is DC’s newest culinary shared incubation space. Local Food Lab’s boot camp focused on building food-specific entrepreneurial skills in order to create a successful startup. With Mess Hall DC hardly three weeks old, this was the perfect place to gather a group of would-be food entrepreneurs who were trying to organize and take their product, service, or idea to the next level.

The audience was made up of food lovers who were at various stages of their business plans, including a man who had perfected his cookie recipe and was ready to start selling; an organic Popsicle producer; and a healthy food delivery service. I myself didn’t have a concrete product or service to sell, but a surplus of ideas that I was trying to synthesize and develop into one golden nugget. What I got from the boot camp was a rigorous guided tour through the startup process.

The presenter, Krysia Zajonc, had a wealth of experience to pull from and presented a very informative and well-organized curriculum, particularly focusing on the steps of writing a business plan, with a heavy focus on getting to know our market and customer. She encouraged us to ‘get outside’ to discuss our product with different people to get honest feedback (Read: don’t just ask mom and dad if they think your jam is tasty!).

We finished the day with a panel discussion featuring three local DC startup leaders: Jason Lundberg of From the Farmer, Al Goldberg of Mess Hall DC, and Mike Lenard of TaKorean. Each panelist discussed their paths and cautioned of the extremely long days and high hurdles to overcome. Al Goldberg told a story of one day finding out a prohibitively high, unanticipated expense and the next finding a grant through the city for which he could apply.

Goldberg stressed that for each extreme low there will be an extreme high, a great lesson to take with us as we return to our own entrepreneurial rollercoaster ride. However, more so than the technical information, the beauty of this boot camp was being surrounded by people with whom I was sharing the same dream — a great resource to connect and work alongside these people for a day, and even into the future.