Sitting Down With Legends

Marcus Samuelsson

INTERVIEW BY: James Whitman

Inside The Morrow Hotel in NoMa, Marcus Samuelson’s newest project, Marcus DC, offers guests a full-sensory experience even before they taste the food: bold artwork by Derrick Adams and vibrant uniforms designed by fashion duo BruceGlen, the dynamic sounds of a globally influenced chef’s playlist, and fragrant ingredients wafting from the open kitchen. The energy of the space open, colorful, and full of life instantly conveys the chef’s philosophy that dining out should be joyful and an opportunity to learn something.

“It’s very important that you come in and be inspired,” says Chef Samuelsson about his first restaurant in DC. “If you don’t feel something after you’ve come in, we haven’t done a good job.”

Born in Ethiopia, Samuelssón lost his mother to tuberculosis before he and his sister were adopted by a Swedish family. He speaks of his Swedish grandmother Helga as his first food teacher her lessons in seasonality, foraging, and preservation formed his earliest connection to craft. Trained in top kitchens in Japan, France, and Switzerland, he later built his name in Harlem, where he helped define a new vision of Black cooking rooted in both tradition and innovation. He has since created more than a dozen destination restaurants across the United States and around the world, along the way picking up eight James Beard nominations and becoming the youngest chef ever to receive three Michelin stars.

At the table, guests encounter dishes that reflect that journey.

Samuelsson brings together Southern and African Black diaspora with local regional ingredients Chesapeake fluke, crab, sweet corn, and mambo sauce, for example. One dish honors local food royalty Virginia Ali of Ben’s Chili Bowl.
“Just like Edible DC, I wanted to tell local stories,” Samuelsson says. “We look at this menu as a way to share those stories in the most delicious personal way.”

To that end, Samuelsson brought home DC-area native and Food Network Chopped winner Anthony Jones, who had worked with Marcus in Miami, to lead Marcus DC’s kitchen as executive chef.

Ultimately, Samuelsson sees mentorship of chefs like Jones as his legacy. After years of being one of the only Black chefs in the fine-dining kitchens where he worked, he now focuses on creating space for others to thrive. “Food gets better when more people are invited to the party,” he says.

Samuelsson kitchens are collaborative, but the restaurant experience isn’t just about what happens in the kitchen and on the plate-it’s about who’s in the room. Open kitchens create transparency. Playful uniforms and curated music break formality. There’s a sense that this space was designed for conversation, celebration, and community.

For Samuelsson, this restaurant brings together the places, people, and influences that have shaped him-from his early childhood in Ethiopia to his grandmother’s kitchen in Sweden to professional kitchens around the world. It reflects how he sees food: as memory, craft, and culture all at once.

“It’s very important that you come in and be inspired. If you don’t feel something after you’ve come in, we haven’t done a good job.”

-Chef Marcus Samuelsson

Publisher James Whitman with Legend Chef Marcus Samuelsson

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