Crafting the Perfect Mid-Atlantic Fruit
WRITTEN BY: Anna El-Eini
Standing on a breezy hilltop on the edge of the Antietam Battlefield, rows of heavily laden apple trees are ripe for picking. But these blush-pink, golden, and bright-red apples are no ordinary fruit. While some were successfully bred for taste, disease resistance, and yield, others are essentially rejects from a 30-year program to produce the perfect mid-Atlantic apple variety. One of the most impressive trees is the Antietam Blush, standing less than 10 feet tall but bearing hundreds of perfectly ripe apples all over its branches. Antietam Blush is a gorgeous pinkish-red apple with a delicious crunch and taste to match its looks. It was the first variety patented by Chris Walsh at the University of Maryland Tree Architecture Project (TAP). He has since developed two others (known as MD-TAP1 and MD-TAP2) for their sweet, crisp taste and climate hardiness, and these are now finding their way into local orchards.
An hour away in Germantown, at Butler’s Orchard—the iconic 75-year-old family farm known for pick-your-own berries, apples, and pumpkins—fall picking season is in full swing. Their two acres of Antietam Blush are a customer favorite, while TAP1 and TAP2, planted last year, will be available in the next few years. Chris’s apples are proving popular with other local growers, too, as they show increased resistance to diseases like fireblight and need less pruning.
Young Libby Butler sampling an apple straight from the tree at the family orchard.
BREEDING THE NEXT GREAT APPLE
Chris began in 1991 by crossbreeding hundreds of McIntosh and Gala apples and selecting around 30 promising offspring. He then crossbred these to yield another 5,000 seedlings, using varieties like Cripps Pink and Golden Delicious, before eventually choosing the top performers—Antietam Blush, and later, TAP1 and TAP2.
Apple trees don’t grow true from seed—each one is genetically unique. Even two great apples cross-pollinating won’t guarantee the same traits. To create trees with the right mix of flavor, crunch, and pest resistance, Chris planted thousands of seedlings, selected the best, and repeated the process over decades. Promising trees were naturally cross-pollinated with other top performers by surrounding it with other favored trees, refining traits each generation. Breeding cycles of hundreds, sometimes thousands, of trees were needed to grow the desired characteristics into a single tree. Once a winner emerged, it was grafted onto rootstock to naturally clone and preserve that exact variety—so every apple grown from it is genetically identical to the original.
LOCAL GROWERS CARRY THE TORCH
Ben Butler, third-generation head grower at Butler’s Orchard, and his brother Tyler, the general manager, are both UMD grads who trained under Chris and admire the program. Ben says, “Chris is trying to shift the apple-growing industry,” to find great-tasting, climate resilient apples that need less “thinning, pruning, and trellising,” all labor-intensive tasks that drive up costs.
The farm is bustling with pick-your-own customers, harvesting bushels of Crimson Crisp, EverCrisp, Gold Rush, Pink Lady, Fuji, and Antietam Blush for lunchboxes, pies, and applesauce. The family relies exclusively on these customers, and as they assess how to protect their farm from the changing climate, Ben says, “the diversity our customers enjoy is also our risk management,” noting that multiple crops and varieties buffers against frost, disease, and changing consumer demand. Selling direct to consumers also lets them avoid the pricing pressures other growers face.
Apples are notoriously prone to blight and pests—especially in the hot, humid conditions of the mid-Atlantic. Only a handful of Pennsylvania farms manage to grow organic apples that make it to local farmers’ markets. For larger retailers, the organic apples on their shelves almost always come from Washington and other states where drier conditions make organic production more feasible. That means for shoppers seeking truly local fruit, finding organic apples is rare. Apples also appear on the Environmental Working Group’s “Dirty Dozen” list of produce most likely to carry pesticide residues. However, much of that pesticide load comes from post-harvest sprays—treatments that integrated pest management (IPM) growers, like Butler’s, don’t use. “Because we don’t store our apples, we don’t spray post-harvest,” explains Ben Butler. “It also means we can choose varieties for flavor and quality, not just shelf life.”
Thanks to research partnerships like the UMD-TAP, new apple varieties will continue to emerge that are better suited to a changing local climate. Meanwhile, Ben, and other local IPM farmers, have adopted growing methods that protect both consumers and farm workers. “Many growers, back in the day, used to spray every seven days,” he says. “Now, even with persistent pests, it’s much easier to use IPM practices to grow sustainably.”
Like many orchardists around the country, Ben is worried about the devastating decline in pollinator populations. A local conservation grant helped Butler’s turn over three acres of land to a pollinator habitat planted with native flowers, and they adopted no-till practices to protect ground-nesting bees throughout their property. They now use high-tech apps like those developed by Dr. Guido Schnabel at Clemson University to practice low-input farming by assessing when and how much to spray, and how to reduce water consumption.
Butler’s also collaborates with Dr. Mengjun Hu, a fruit pathologist at the University of Maryland, whose research at the farm helps develop smarter, more precise pest-control strategies. Using pheromone disruptors for fruit moths cuts pest populations dramatically, and targeted fireblight treatments prevent widespread tree loss, all helping to maintain a thriving, sustainable farm.
INNOVATIONS FOR HOME GROWERS
Michael McConkey of Edible Landscaping near Charlottesville, Virginia, has found other innovative ways to protect his apple trees.
Antietam Blush trees in bloom at Butlers Orchard.
He recalls a customer who owned a quarry and noticed that peach trees coated in quarry dust produced the best fruit he’d ever tasted. Curious, McConkey researched the phenomenon and discovered Surround WP, a mineral clay that protects apples from heat stress, plum curculio, and codling moths. He now uses it to grow organic dwarf and semi-dwarf trees for easier, home-scale care. “Growing apples in the hot, humid East is far more challenging than in the dry West,” he says, “but it can be done.”
Backyard growers like Sherin Koshy can attest to this. She has successfully grown Fuji apples and Honeycrisp without ever watering, fertilizing, or spraying them. “I don’t do anything to those trees. The blossoms in the spring are just gorgeous. And every year we have the most beautiful apples. We get baskets of apples every day!”
Consumers and growers love a crisp, sweet, lush-looking apple—and a great name like GoldRush, Cosmic Crisp, or Antietam Blush—and while growers like Butler’s and Edible Landscaping are growing the best apples they can for now, the work is still being done to stay ahead of the region’s changing climate to keep producing that next great apple. Chris’s program and others like it all over the country, are working to develop even better apples, fine-tune pest management, and stay ahead of climate change.
In the meanwhile, head over to Butler’s and pick your own delicious apples from the many varieties they have on offer, or pick up two or more saplings (remember you need at least two for cross pollination!) from Edible Landscaping, and maybe, you can grow your own!